Fabulous immaculate outer condition grey wool tweed & mouton fur coat from 'King of Coat's Frank Russell's Mansfield brand.
The lining does have a couple of small stains, but nothing visible, and this is reflected in the price.
The brand dominated women's quality Made in England outerwear 196-s to 1980s , winning a Queen's Award to Industry in 1966 & 1968, and Frank helped set up and chaired the British Fashion Industry Export Council. This could be a coat from that period, ie late 1960s but has the label usually associated with 1970s pieces. In addition while at first sight it has the kick open front often cut for mini skirts, we think this one is more for A line skirt 'show' and also the cut of the flare is A line. It could be later 1970s but we think this puts it c 1972-74.
The front & above fur cuff area has a Vermicelli Italian stitch inspired piping on the front to waist, and the estimated date style & 'Princess' look of the coat made me think of Nyree Dawn Porter in 'The Protectors' ,who played an Italian based crime fighting Contessa, for some reason. I think it looks great with a fedora hat as she wore. So even if we are slightly out with the date it certainly fits that kind of style, which is band on trend atm. The fact it has real sheepskin trim also dates it before the later 70s when they switched to high quality faux fur collars and cuffs. But it could also pass for 1960s even if it's not.
Mansfield items are often difficult to date precisely as Frank Russell very much had a variety of inspirations, often taking ideas from the street despite the high end tailoring & quality fabrics. But what they al have in common is that quality.
Frank had a really interesting life as somewhat of a real life 'Protector', serving in WWII in Italy himself notably the Battle of Monte Cassino where he was a radio operator. He was also on a ship that was torpedoed at one point during the war. But while he finished the war in Austria interrogating Nazis hiding among civilians, as a Jewish immigrant family from Minsk, his 'war' against Fascism began in the 1930s. Growing up as he was 'lookout' during Moseley's boisterous Fascist meetings as their HQ was close to his father's tailoring workshop in the East End.
It is a great shame that Mansfield ceased trading in the 1990s and the brand is not valued by Fashion media as it is among those in the know about quality. Possibly because during the later 1980s and 1980s it began to cater to the clientelle that it has 30 years before as they aged; so the designs are less 'fitted' and a little 'Mother of the Bride'. But until the mid 80s you will seldom find more stylish clothing particularly suits and coats. Among the label's well known clients were Lady Diana and Margaret Thatcher.
The garments were made to last well tailored and always used quality fabrics and this is no exception. Indeed the cut on this is quite unique, and atm very 'edgy' and the lovely real grey sheared sheepskin collar is glossy & soft. The coat is as new. The fabric covered buttons are 'faux' though: the coat actually fastens with two metal poppers in front. And the front from waist down does flare open, so be aware that is the intention of the design. Good with a skirt you want to show off, flared jeans, or especially long boots
It is ideal for a size 8 or 10 UK.
More about Frank Russell here
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